Monday, August 9, 2010

Mckenzie Pond

This place is great! The rock is super coarse and is pretty sharp, so don't plan on being able to climb hard three or four days in a row, but it's worth it. Some really nice projects I got on were Slobadon V5, a nice crimpy/compressiony start up, slightly using the arete, then a scary top out. Ian's Favorite Problem V5, a short 3 or 4 move problem on terribly small crimps up to a nicer hold, then the feet get bad, then up to the top. Also there were two V4's on the third set of boulders, this is the first one I worked.
Start is huge, up to a good hold, then get a nice side pull. This is where is gets tricky for short people. There is a small sloping crimp you have to make a big move to, I had to get it using the tiny feet scattered on the face of the wall, instead of the huge bottom ledge. So if your a tall person, this problem will probably feel maybe v3 at the hardest, but for the rest of us, v4 is sandbaggin it a little.
The second one I worked is a really nice compression problem.
It is a slapfest up the arete on nice solid holds, with a couple crimps you could snag. The feet get a little small and desperate and you come around the arete, then the top is a little awkard but fun after you figure out the perfect holds. Its a tall one though so be sure to have good pads.

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